Italy

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Il Cannone, the violin of Pagannini

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Upon his death, Niccolò Pagannini—arguably the world’s most celebrated and virtuosic violinist—gifted his 1743 instrument made by Giuseppe Bartolomeo Guarneri to the city of Genoa. It’s on display in a government museum with other artifacts from his life. The wax on the back of the scroll is the seal of ownership of Genoa, a common practice at the time. I was fortunate to meet one of two caretakers of the instrument at his shop. He has studied the instrument as much as (if not more) than anyone and makes replicas, seen here with my 5-string fiddle whose pattern was taken from Pagannini’s instrument. And I received a gift of old antique mutes to add to my collection!

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Cremona, Italy

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Couldn’t resist a quick overnight trip to the birthplace of the modern violin — with notable visits to the Museo del Violino to gaze upon instruments by previous resident luthiers Amati, Guarneri, and Stradivari; the International School of Violin where the making tradition is alive and well; and roaming the streets until I found myself in front of Stradivari’s home.

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Genoa & Italian Riviera

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Coming down from the Ligurian countryside into Genoa, touring the Italian Riviera by boat, and visiting Il Cannone, Paganini’s violin.

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Quattro Province, Northern Italy

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After arriving by ferry from Sardinia, I headed north from Genoa, following winding roads through the Italian countryside into the Quattro Province, where four regions meet along the spine of the Apennine Mountains. I passed through narrow streets and villages, bright facades painted in trompe l’oeil style that will the eye, steeples and stone towers, fields glowing with color. I was on my way to Cegni (pop. 43) to find piffero music.

 
 
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Pula & Around Sardinia, Italy

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The small town of Pula, outside Sardinia’s capital Cagliari, would be my home while on the island. I took day trips into the mountains (where a plane had crashed in 1979 and I was greated by mountain goats). In order to get return to mainland Italy, I had to drive the length of the island back to the ferry, bringing me along coastal roads, cork trees, and by ancient spiritual sites.

 
 
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Sardinian National Anthem • with Elena Ledda & Mauro Palmas

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Sardinian National Anthem • with Elena Ledda & Mauro Palmas

My first trip to Italy kicked off on the island of Sardinia where I met Elena Ledda and Mauro Palmas, two of the most respected musicians in traditional Sardinian music.

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Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy

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Immediately after landing in Genoa, Italy, I boarded a ferry and headed south to the island of Sardinia. My home base would be the small town of Pula, not far outside the capital of Cagliari. I ventured into the city for my first collaboration with soprano Elena Ledda and mandola player Mauro Palmas.