After arriving by ferry from Sardinia, I headed north from Genoa, following winding roads through the Italian countryside into the Quattro Province, where four regions meet along the spine of the Apennine Mountains. I passed through narrow streets and villages, bright facades painted in trompe l’oeil style that will the eye, steeples and stone towers, fields glowing with color. I was on my way to Cegni (pop. 43) to find piffero music.
